Tune up time

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Tune up time

Postby Davenhla » Mon Apr 16, 2018 2:59 pm

So my U302 has been on snow duty this winter, and as it is (maybe?) finally looking like spring might get here in WI in the next few weeks I am gearing up for some tune up/repair items I want to address this year.

Item #1: It has the "long skinny" battery. The little shelf/bracket next to the fender by the Hyd. remote levers is in good shape. I want to convert this to a normal, car/truck shaped battery. I hate the long skinny's, back in the day farming we had decent luck with the one on this Moline, but horrible luck with the pair on our JD 4020. In more recent years, it seems the battery manufacturers have realised only antique/etc people are buying that obsolete shape, and have seemed to really reduce the quality of the battery. My last Interstate cost almost $150, is basically shot after 3 years, and to boot it has a whopping 450 CCA. For $15 less, I bought a 900 CCA "glass mat" AGM for my truck last fall. I have one of those in an old Mustang that I bought 5 years ago and have zero problem with them. So that is my goal.

How do I go about modifying the battery tray/bracket to accomodate a shorter, somewhat wider battery? Is it possible? Any of you guys done this in the past and have some tips? it looks like if I place it to the rear of the current tray, there should be plenty of room next to the remote levers. Will I need to fab up a custom tray? Borrow something out of a car for hold down etc? Move the battery location altogether? Any tips here would be appreciated.

Item #2: Hyd. Oil leak. This old gal spent a lot of it's working time with a 3pt cultivator, disc harrow, and in later years a construction grade nine foot rear blade(HEAVY!) on the back(manure and snow duty) when it wasn't pulling wagons and as a result, the little pin(draft control I think?) that goes into the back of the tractor from on the 3rd link mount/bracket leaks oil. Is this something I can do externally, as in, does it come apart from the back, or do I need a major tear down to get at the seals? Will the pin itself be worn out? Any insight into this would be a help, I do have the owners book/parts book, but if someone has done this job before and has a story to tell i am all ears.

Item #3: Radiator hoses. My 1965 U302 Super is sporting the original hoses. Bottom one has gotten a small crack in it and is dripping. It is hard as a rock, and I want to put some new ones on before it fails. I haven't been able to find anything through google searches for this tractor, well, nothing besides "universal" fit hose. Does anyone make the custom "bent" hoses for a U302? Can I get them from AGCO, or am I only going to find universal pleated style hose? My local car parts store can order me Gates universal hose, so I can go that route, but I would love some proper curved fit hoses.

Item #4: the carb leaks. If I do not shut off the little valve on the bottom of the gas tank(it's gas, not diesel) gas will continually drip out of the carb. As it is, even when I do shut it off, the contents of the carb will drip out onto the floor. I feel with almost 5000 hours on the tractor, the carb could likely use a rebuild haha. I have never done this. I am not afraid to try it, I figure a nice clean table to work at and some kind of rebuild kit would be all I need. Recommended source for a kit? Anything I need to watch for?

Other items: there is a hesitation in the tractor when I use it in the cold weather. I tend to have to run it with the choke pulled out about 1/4 inch. Even then, occasionally when I go to let the clutch out, it will sputter for a second. Between my leaky carb, and 25-30 year old plug wires etc, I am hoping the carb rebuild and some tune up/replacement on the ignition should remedy that. If not, is there another obvious source some one has run into before?
Another item I may or may not try to tackle this year is the rear tires. 15.5x38. They are bad, lots of lug, but cracked to all get out. Bigger issue is the rims are in pretty rough condition. My Dad had the tire shop repair the rims where the valve stem is(welded a small patch) but these tires have had fluid in them forever, and between age and years of manure duty the rim part of the rear wheels is pretty sad looking. These wheels are of a one piece type, where the centers are welded to the rims. What are my options here? The centers are in good condition as far as I can tell. Should I find somewhere to remove/re-weld new rims onto the centers? Is there a more common tractor with this style of wheel i could salvage used wheels from? Should I change out the rears entirely for some 18.4x38's? I wasn't really planning on that, as this tractor does not do field work anymore and traction on my asphalt drive/lot is adequate with the fluid filled 15.5's in the winter. Anyone here swapped their 15's to some 18's? Should I be looking for some wheels off an Oliver or a newer White to replace my badly rusted wheels? Will my MM factory donut weights bolted to my wheels fit anything else?

Any feedback is appreciated, I am hoping to have some fun in the shed this summer sprucing up the old gal.
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