direct injection???what does this mean.

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direct injection???what does this mean.

Postby coco 4 `wvo » Sun Feb 24, 2008 10:27 pm

what is direct injection. i m new to the form,wvo. I drive a 85 f-250 with 6.9 diesel engine. will the forula that tony turner said with the 85 wvo 10ker 5 gaso few onces of diesel-keleen pluscetane boost... about half way down the pay its starts with. its breaks it down to this 20gal fileter wvo 2 gal ker 1 gal unleaded 15 ox power serice plus centane boost addditive,3.05 oz of DSE.. will that mix work with cold winters in utah? aslo with it work in a 84 ford 250 6.9 diesel engine. i sure hope so guess man i love this idea of making your own fuel.. thanks coco 4 wvo... or email me at plisonbee@hotmail.com :!: :!: :!: [/u]
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Lots of questions

Postby Tony Turner » Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:10 pm

Direct injection is where the injector sprays the fuel right down on top of the piston. Most of the time the piston will have a recessed area that may even have a dimple right in the center. Indirect injection is where the injector sprays into a "pre-combustion" chamber.

I think your ford is a direct injection but I've not looked at one to know. I've sure there are people on here that know more than I do that can answer that question.

I only run that mix in the warmer weather (which we have a lot of here in Mississippi). In cold weather I burn bio-diesel. If you heat the WVO all the way you can run it all year.

I have two tanks on my Mercedes. The main tank with my veggie mix and a small two gallon tank with regular diesel. I start on regular diesel then switch after the engine warms up. Then I switch it back a few miles before I shut the engine down for the day.

Good luck,
Tony
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Postby Joe Leising » Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:05 pm

I think the 6.9 and early 7.3 Ford's are all IDI. I don't think Ford went the direct injection until the Powerjoke.


What kind of valve do you use to swap between tanks? I may try the WVO/Kero/Gas/Power Service mix this summer if diesel keeps climbing or I won't be going to very many shows.

Joe
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Pollock

Postby Tony Turner » Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:20 pm

Joe,
I use the Pollock 6 port switch. I bought it from JC Whitney for about $60. It switches the fuel supply and return lines. They are easy to wire and work really well for the money. Some people use two fuel pumps and just switch on which one they want to use. Go to www.fattywagons.com they show a wiring diagram for the two fuel pump setup.

I've used the pollock (or it may be Pollack) valve on a 2005 Ford F-250 King Ranch and it works great. The newer Fords use Stainless Steal fuel lines so they can be very hard to cut. I cut them down on the frame just below the driver.

Later,
Tony
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thaks for the great comment about direct inject

Postby coco 4 `wvo » Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:17 pm

[quote="Joe Leising"]I think the 6.9 and early 7.3 Ford's are all IDI. I don't think Ford went the direct injection until the Powerjoke.


What kind of valve do you use to swap between tanks? I may try the WVO/Kero/Gas/Power Service mix this summer if diesel keeps climbing or I won't be going to very many shows.

Joe[/quote] thansk so much for all you input about this topic.. i cant wait to finish and try the mix on this web site in my truck.. ps i just bought the 1" goldrod water seperater for 40 out the door. thank peter
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Disclamier

Postby Tony Turner » Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:41 am

O.K. Before you start I want you to understand that everything I've talked about here I have done and it works well for me. I live in the south and we have lots of warm weather and this stuff runs great in my old Mercedes and a few other trucks I've helped people convert. I've even used straight WVO in my cars with good success.

STANDARD DISCLAIMER!! I do need you to know that this website, nor me personally, are not responsible for any damage you may do to your truck. You take any action on your own with full knowledge that we are not experts, just experimenters trying to find a better way to fuel our cars, trucks and tractors. Anything you do you do at your own risk. It's sad I had to say that but people feel the need to get lawyers involved when they do something dumb and don't use their head. For some reason they need to blame someone else for them being stupid. Do you guys feel my bitterness??

As a site I was sued by AGCO because someone bought a MM combine and got hurt with it. They sued AGCO and quoted this site as a source of information claiming that combines are dangerous (DUH!!!). Anyway, AGCO felt the need to pass a little love down to me claiming the web site had passed mis-information and slandered them. Now I don't want to start any crap but combine are dangerous. Anybody that grew up using one would know that but so are knives, cars, boats, curling irons, lawn mowers, etc. Anybody that doesn't know that has had their head in the sand all their life..... I made my point! Final word from me "USE YOUR HEAD!!!!!!"

Make sure the oil is dry. Almost all oil has a bit of water in it if they are cooking food with it. I have a 15 gallon barrel that I've welded two 1 inch fittings about 6 inches from the bottom and one about 12 inches from the top. I screwed a 110volt 1500watt water heater element into one of the lower fittings and attached the inlet of a 1 inch clear water pump ($30 Harbor Freight) to the other lower fitting. The outlet of the pump goes to a dual brass cutoff valve. One side of the cutoff valve has a hose connected to it that connects to the upper 1 inch fitting at the top of my tank and the other goes to the water filter and then to my final filter and then my filler hose.

To dry the oil I open the brass valve that goes to the top of the tank and start the oil circulating. Then I turn on the heating element and bring the oil up to around 250 degrees. You will hear a little popping and crackling as the water starts to boil off and you'll see a little steam form at the top of the tank. DO NOT EVER!!! TURN THE PUMP OFF WHILE THE OIL IS ABOVE 200 DEGREES!!!!! a pocket of water can gather in the tank and as it super heats it will turn to steam in a flash and blow scalding hot oil all over everything and everybody around (been there and never again).

My tank is also used as my mixing tank so I have a drain in the middle of the bottom. After the oil has cooled down to 90 or 100 degrees I drain about a gallon or two out of the bottom. Any water that has settled and not cooked off will normally come out at that time. Then I process the oil for use and pump it through the filters into my fuel tank.

I have simplified that a bit so I may have missed something but I hope you get the idea.

I will cover pre-filtering in your other post.

Tony
Last edited by Tony Turner on Wed Feb 27, 2008 7:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby shinnery » Wed Feb 27, 2008 12:00 am

Tony
Please reread your disclaimer. I think you left a "NOT" out, as in "are NOT responsible". I read it several times and to me it doesn't read right.
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Thanks

Postby Tony Turner » Wed Feb 27, 2008 7:05 am

Thanks Bryce. I typed that novel in a hurry and you were right, it did not read correctly. I went back and added the work not.

Thanks,
Tony
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